GlassCast 10 is rated up to 50°C. This makes it unsuitable for use with very hot cups and plates. As such we would only recommend their use for decorative or colder temperature drink/plate use to prevent the part being damaged. Hot plates or cups may well leave a ring on the surface.

Both parts of the material (the resin and the hardener) are in bottles which are much bigger than they really need to be but that is because we have to use special UN approved bottles and packaging for resins and other Dangerous Goods and there are only so many sizes of these available. The weight on the bottle applies to the weight of the contents and the combined weight of the resin (Part A) and the hardener (Part B) equal the total kit weight.

Yes the cured GlassCast 10 can be turned in a wood lathe and machined with woodworking tools in general. Allow a minimum of 48 hours to fully harden before machining begins.

Yes, you can certainly cast GlassCast into silicone moulds. Whether you should use GlassCast 10 or GlassCast 50 really depends on the thickness of your moulding at its thickest point. By 'thickness', we generally talking about the smallest of 3 dimensions at any point. So, for example, a casting that measures 30mm x 20mm x 3mm we would say is 3mm 'thick'. A casting that is 24mm x 20mm x 30mm we would say is 20mm thick. A sphere of 10mm diameter is 10mm thick. When casting into a silicone mould you can use GlassCast 10 for castings up to 10mm thick and GlassCast 50 for castings up to 50mm thick. If in doubt, go with GlassCast 50, it will still cure fine, in any thickness, but it may take a lot longer.

Providing that the wetroom floor was fitted and used in the conventional way; i.e. it was occasionally wet and other times allowed to dry then - other than considerations around slipperiness - it should be OK to use GlassCast for this application.

The resin will reach its full cure after approximately 7 days.

Yes you can apply varnishes over the top of GlassCast 10. We would recommend giving the surface a light key and thorough clean to aid best adhesion.

It would be possible to use the GlassCast 10 for a river table but the normal choice would be our  GlassCast 50 Clear Casting Resin – River Tables/ Wood Turning-Bowls/ Large Jewellery product which was basically developed specifically for river table applications.

The reason why you would choose GlassCast 50 over GlassCast 10 for a river table is the thickness and size of the section. GlassCast 50 is designed for larger castings (up to 50mm thick in the right circumstances) whereas GlassCast 10 should not be cast in thicknesses more than 10mm, otherwise there is a danger that the resin could overheat during curing. If you check out the GlassCast 50 product page you'll find a whole host of information on using that product for a live edge river table.

Yes, steel brackets or other 'hard points' could be encapsulated into the lower portion of the pour either as is, or recessed into the wood for a flush finish. You would need to ensure the hidden surfaces are fully keyed on the plate to help with adhesion of the metal to the resin. Finally it would be necessary to drill and clean the threads with a tap to ensure the plate is effective.

We always recommend sealing a wood surface before coating with any of the GlassCast resins. This is because the resin can soak in displacing air and causing bubbles in the resin. Brushing a thin sealing coat of GlassCast over the wood and allowing it to fully cure will prevent this occurring. You would then just need to re-key the surface with sandpaper prior to your main GlassCast pour. Ordinarily you would use the same GlassCast product to seal with as the main pour.

GlassCast 3 can be poured over both GlassCast 10 and GlassCast 50 to give a smooth finish without the need for further sanding and polishing. The epoxy surface will need to be keyed with a 240 grit abrasive paper and thoroughly cleaned prior to pouring the GlassCast 3.